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The 2 most commonly used feline vaccines are killed and modified-live vaccines. Killed vaccines are incapable of producing disease and cannot replicate themselves within a vaccinated animal. Modified-live vaccines cannot, for the most part, include clinical disease, but they can replicate themselves within a vaccinated animal. The choice between killed and modified-live vaccines is influenced by circumstances. A veterinarian confident of obtaining effective immunity by using killed vaccine because it does not contain live virus.

Modified-live vaccines are chosen when a faster, more broad-based immune system response is desired because modified-live viruses continue to replicate in the vaccinated animal. They inspire the animal’s immune system to respond more rapidly with greater vigor than it would to be a killed-vaccine injection. Indeed, modified-live vaccines confer long-lasting protection from a single dose. Modified-live vaccines are also the only kind of vaccine that can be administered intranasally. This becomes a consideration when it is necessary to vaccinate against specific viruses that enter the body through nasal passages e.g. the upper respiratory viruses. Intranasal inoculations produce a special type of local immune response on the linings of the nasal passages. This response – which can be important in blocking the early phase of infection at the source – may not be as readily produced from systemic vaccination paths.

For every plus there is often a minus, and vaccines are no exception. Killed vaccines do not provoke as broad a range of response as modified-live vaccines do and there is a slightly greater chance that the preparation of killed vaccines will produce extraneous material in the vaccine – which could cause an adverse reaction. But this is not as much a problem today as it once was. Moreover, killed vaccines do not confer adequate protection in 1 dose. Consequently, a second or third injection should be administered at 4-weeks intervals following the initial vaccination.

For their part, modified-live vaccines have the exceedingly slight potential of reverting to a virulent form capable of producing disease instead of preventing it. (Reversion to virulence occurs infrequently and is incriminated more often that it should be). In addition, modified-live vaccines are less stable than other forms and may be able to infect a developing fetus if administered to a pregnant cat. (Modified-live vaccines are also dangerous for cats with corneal ulcers).

Queens should be vaccinated before breeding or at least at midterm of their pregnancy (with killed vaccines only) because queens cannot pass on antibodies through their milk to nursing kittens if they (the queens) do not possess those antibodies. Kittens should be vaccinated for the first time when they are 6 – 8 weeks old. After they have received their kitten vaccination(s), they should receive booster shots annually. Cats being shown regularly should be vaccinated every 6 months.

Recognizing the signs of arthritis
- Reluctance to walk, climb stairs, jump or play
- Difficulty performing routine movements including rising from a resting position.
- Limping
- Yelping in pain when touched or resisting touch
- Change in personality
- Audible clicking when walking

Noticed that fluffy is limping or using one side of his/her body more? We bring you the myths and facts concerning arthritis, which strikes among felines and how to make life comfortable for your arthritic pet.

Myth: Arthritis only strikes humans and it’s not a pet disease.
Fact: Our cats are just as susceptible to the disease as we are. Arthritis is a condition in which an animal’s joints become inflamed. It is accompanied by pain, heat and swelling in the joints and it usually results in increasing stiffness and immobility. The symbol of arthritis can be hard to distinguish. Animals can’t complain about their aching joints, so all that cat “parents” see is a response to pain. Many illnesses may mimic the symptoms of arthritis, so it must be properly diagnosed.

Myth: There is no known treatment for arthritis for pets
Fact: There are countless types of treatments available for the treatment of arthritis for cats. In recent years, many new medications have made the treatment of arthritis much more promising. Your vet may prescribe steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs to decrease the swelling in joints and make movement easier. It is important that you not try to medicate your cat’s arthritis on your own, and human anti-inflammatory and supplements can be dangerous for cats as well.

Surgery is also an option for some animals with arthritis, particularly younger cats. Veterinary surgeons can try to reconstruct joints to give them more stability or they may perform an arthroscopy to remove chips of damaged bone. In some large breed, vets will choose to replace the entire hip joint.

Many pet owners and veterinarians are turning to complementary or holistic therapies to reduce arthritis symptoms. Acupuncture is becoming increasingly popular as a treatment for chronic pain, for example. Massage is also gaining support, as it benefits cats both physically and emotionally.

Myth: Arthritis strikes any cat, with no warning and there is no way to prevent it.
Fact: Arthritis can affect cats of any age and breed but certain risk factors increase a cat’s susceptibility to the disease.

Obesity
Studies shown hat obese cats are likely to develop osteoarthritis 3 years earlier on average than lean and healthy ones.

Joint abnormalities
Joint conditions such as Hip dysplasia can increase a cat’s risk of developing osteoarthritis because it puts excessive stress on the animal’s joints.

Joint stress & trauma injuries
Getting hit by a car that damages ligaments, tissues or bones also increase an animal’s risk of developing osteoarthritis. In addition, high-activity cats in demanding activities put repeated stress on their joints. This chronic ligamentous injury makes them more susceptible to osteoarthritis.

Out of all these factors, there is one that helps in reducing the risk of arthritis in cats that you, as the owner can help and control. Obesity in pets is said to be the leading cause of arthritis after genetic predisposition. Keeping your cat’s weight at a healthy level will help prevent the onset arthritis.

Even with treatment, arthritis makes animals less able to deal with physical challenges of their world. A few alterations around the house can help your arthritic pet to move around more easily and confidently.
- Keep litter boxes, food and water dishes at a comfortable height, easily accessible and on a non-slip surface such as rubber mat or piece of carpet. In a multi-level house, keep them on every floor.
- Supply a padded surface to cushion your pet’s joints while he/she sits or sleeps. Use cat beds, beanbags or mattresses. Place padding in a warm, draft-free spot.
- Some pets that are too stiff to use the stairs will try to use them regardless, possibly falling and hurting themselves in the process. Supervise your pet when she is using the stairs and use a baby gate to keep the steps off limits the rest of the time.
- Groom your pet regularly as animals lose flexibility in their joints, they can’t reach around to scratch or groom themselves the way they used to. Cats particularly may develop matted or dirty fur, which is very upsetting to a finicky feline! Regular brushing will help your cat feel comfortable and allow you to spend some quiet, affectionate time with him/her.

Your closest ally in your battle against the disease is your vet. Arthritis may well change your life with your pet but it certainly doesn’t mean that life is over. You may not get your cat jump up after the feather toy but you can replace these lost activities with time being near your cat. Your energetic, playful friendship may eventually be replaced with the joy of a gentle, caring life together.

By: Dr. Debra Primovic

The flea is a common problem for cats as well as their owners. As if flea bites aren’t bad enough, some pets are “flea allergic” and develop severe itching with even trivial infestations of fleas. This occurs because the animal becomes hypersensitive to the antigens in flea saliva.

The itching component to flea allergy can be treated with antihistamines or even steroids (prescribed by your veterinarian) but the best approach is to kill the flea and prevent its return. Like all parasites, fleas pose a health-hazard to your pet (and to you), and can make him miserable. These worrisome pests can be treated and prevented.

Fleabite hypersensitivity or “flea allergy” can occur in any breed with the average age of first occurrence being three to six years. There appears to be no sex predilection. Fleas are typically seasonal in Northern climates and non-seasonal (year-round) in Southern climates.

What to Watch For
- Itching, chewing and licking
- Flea “dirt” (black pepper type discharge on the skin)
- Skin lesions such as moist dermatitis
- Presence of fleas

Diagnosis
Diagnostic tests may not be needed to recognize fleas but they may be important to determine if flea-associated illness is occurring. Tests may include:

- Complete medical history and physical examination. Fleas can usually be diagnosed based on the history and physical examination. Flea combing helps to find fleas or flea “dirt.”

- Fecal examination for tapeworm eggs, which can be secondary to flea infestation, may be recommended.

Treatment

Treatment for fleas may be dependent on the following: the degree of infestation; whether you have both cats and dogs; the time of the year; area of exposure (yard vs. park); and whether your pet has an allergy to the fleas.

Recommendations may include the following:

- Many products are available for the treatment of flea infestations. All products have advantages and disadvantages and may or may not be safe to use with other products. Some of the over-the-counter powders, sprays and collars (such as Hartz® or Sargeant’s® products) contain pyrethrin, which is moderately effective. However, the best flea products are obtainable only with a prescription.

- In tough cases, a comprehensive flea control program may be needed that involves treatment of your pet, yard and house.

Home Care and Prevention

Optimal treatment for your pet requires a combination of home and professional veterinary care. Follow-up is important especially in cases of flea allergic pets. Make sure to administer all veterinary prescribed medications and follow preventative recommendations.

Be certain to contact your veterinarian if you are experiencing problems treating your pet or the environment. Some microscopic eggs can live in the environment like the yard for weeks to months and cause re-infection. If your yard has a severe infestation, use products recommended by your veterinarian.

Minimize roaming in places like parks and fields where exposure and infection are possible. Minimize contact with rabbits, rodents and/or fleas to minimize exposure to tapeworms.

Monitor all pets in your household for evidence of fleas on a regular basis. Use a flea comb to check for fleas. A flea comb is a comb with very fine teeth that will catch the flea as you comb, giving you evidence of its presence.

Flea prevention is recommended when there is a reasonable chance of flea infestation or in a flea-allergic pet living in an area infested by fleas. Products, such as Program® (lufenuron), are popular for this purpose; they prevent development of fleas that attack your pet. With few exceptions, these are far more effective than most collars or tags.

A fever is defined as abnormally high body temperature resulting from internal controls. It is believed that fever is a method of fighting infection. The body resets the temperature control area of the brain to increase the body temperature – probably in response to invasion of foreign matter such as bacteria or viruses. Since many invaders do not thrive in hot environments, by increasing the temperature of the body, these invaders can be destroyed.

This is different from hyperthermia, which is an increase in body temperature due to external influences such as hot weather, inability to pant or sweat. The brain does not intend for the body temperature to increase.

Fever is usually differentiated from hyperthermia based on the animal’s recent environment, for example if he was in a hot car, as well as the animal’s response to the increased temperature. Animals that pant excessively and have increased heart and respiratory rates are typically victims of overheating (hyperthermia). Fever animals do not exhibit significant distress.

The normal temperature in dogs is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.

Causes of Fever
- Infection
- Inflammation
- Cancer
- Drug related
- Immune system disease

What to Watch For
- Lethargy
- Behavior changes such as “crankiness”
- Not eating or drinking
- Hiding
- Swellings or lumps (abscesses or tumors)
- Draining wounds

Diagnosis
Fever is easily diagnosed based on a rectal temperature. A body temperature over 103F is considered a fever. Diagnosing the underlying cause of the fever, which is usually related to an infection, can be challenging. Sometimes, history and physical exam findings can indicate the cause of the fever or source of infection. Unfortunately, diagnosis may require various tests if the cause is not easily determined. Some recommended tests may include:

- CBC (complete blood count or hemogram). This will determine white blood cell count, red blood cell count and platelets. Many animals with fever have an elevated white blood cell count

- Chemistry profile to help determine the overall health of the animal and to detect any organ impairment

- Blood smear to detect blood parasites

- Serologic testing for uncommon sources of fever such as tick transmitted diseases

- Blood evaluation for immune system diseases

- Feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus testing

- Urinalysis to detect a urinary tract infection

- X-rays to determine if there are any internal masses, pneumonia or other abnormalities that may lead to a fever

- Abdominal and/or cardiac ultrasound to detect a source of infection such as liver, kidney, heart valves

- Exploratory surgery with various organ biopsies in prolonged fever cases without diagnosis

Treatment
Treatment for a fever is based on the underlying diagnosis and severity of the fever. Some mild fevers may not be treated since mild fevers can help destroy invading bacteria or viruses. If a diagnosis is not readily apparent based on history and physical exam findings, it is quite common for your veterinarian to try a course of antibiotics before progressing to diagnostic testing. For temperatures over 104.5 - 105 F, medication is recommended initially to break the fever. Ketoprofen is commonly used to treat fevers. Commonly prescribed antibiotics are:

- Amoxicillin
- Ampicillin
- Cephalexin
- Doxycycline

If the fever continues or recurs despite antibiotic treatment, additional diagnostic testing is recommended. If a cause for the fever is determined, treatment is specific for the cause.

Home Care
For mild fevers, less than 104.5F, monitoring your pet at home may result in spontaneous recovery. Make sure your pet continues to eat and drink. Take your pet’s temperature one to two times daily. If the temperature rises above 104.5F, this should prompt you to contact your veterinarian.

Also, look for any areas of infection such as abscesses, skin lumps, blood in urine or straining to urinate, sneezing or breathing difficulty. In addition, lack of appetite or lethargy should prompt an examination and treatment by your veterinarian.

Preventative Care
Many causes of fever are not preventable and are associated with infections. Keeping your pet and the environment clean as well as avoiding exposure to ill pets or animal fights can reduce the chance of infections and fevers

I got this article in the ClubPets magazine and thought of sharing with u guys.

Like us our pets also behave differently when they feel under the weather and behaviour changes are often amongst the earliest signs that all is not well. Observing your cat’s behaviour can help you detect health problems and catch the early stages of a disease, for more effective teatment.

Lethargy or excessive sleepiness
This common sign of sickness is sometimes difficult for owners to recognize, as healthy adult cats may sleep 16 - 18 hours a day. However, if you notice a substantial decrease in your cat’s enthusiasm for play or general activity, then medical problems cannot be ruled out, as pain from orthopaedic problems as well as infectious and metabolic diseases may be to blame. Only a trip to the vet will rule these out.

Change in appetite
Keep track of how much your cat normally eats and drinks so that any variation can be detected easily and early. A decrease in appetite is perhaps the most noticeable change, especially when you find food left in the bowl at the end of the day. If this continues for more than 24 hours, you should be concerned. Several medical conditions ranging from simple gastrointestinal infection to more complex organic disease of the liver or kidneys could be responsible for appetite suppression and a visit to the vet is needed to tell the difference between these.

Increases in appetite are more difficult to recognize and in older cats, conditions such as hyperthyroidism are commonly associated with an increase in food consumption. It is common for the cat to become very vocal in his demands for food. Other endocrine disorders and metabolic diseases can also be responsible for a ravenous appetite and once again, a vet needs to examine a cat to identify the cause.

Change in groomingCats are famous for the pride they take in their appearance and the amount of time they spend grooming themselves. Lack of interest in coat care is often a sign of physical disease, and infectious conditions and associated high temperatures are often the main factors. Conversely, cats that groom too often may have an itchy skin condition. The most obvious cause is external parasites, such as fleas, and when cats are licking frantically at their coat in short frequent episodes it is sensible to review the treatment you use for flea control.

However, why cats groom themselves excessivley is not limited to just dermatological problems. If the main targeted area is the belly and inner hindlegs, it is worth considering urinary tract disease as a cause, since pain from the bladder disease can result in cats licking extensively at this region.

In addition to medical causes, behavioural factors may be involved. Cats groom to relieve stress and in situations where causes of stress are ongoing and unavoidable, cats may groom to the point of hair loss and even skin damage. In homes with multiple cats, inter-cat tension may be the cause. If this is indeed the case, a complete veterinary examination will help you to rule out any physical health problems.

Weight loss
This sign often goes unnoticed, especially in long-haired cat. Owners who regularly groom their cats may noticed the ribs and backbone becoming more prominent. Those who regularly weigh their cats are sure to see a change. A sudden loss of 1/2kg in a cat that normally weigh 5kg is cause for concern and a veterinary examination is in order.

Change in litter box habits
Cats that start visiting the litter box more frequently or that repeatedly urinated or defecate outside the box may be suffering from a disease of the lower urinary tract or large intestine. Cats that strain to urinate may have a urethral obstruction, such cats are in grave danger and need immediate veterinary attention. Do not waste any time and bring your cat to the vet as soon as you can.

Stay observant
When we lived with cats, we become very accustomed to their bahaviour patterns and it is often changes in these that alert us to some underlying medical problem. Besides observing your pet closely on a daily basis, get in the habit of giving your cat a weekly mini-physical to detect the early developing signs of ill health. You could save yourself from hefty vet bills and a lot of heartache later.

Your veterinarian has prescribed pills for your cat and it’s your job to see that your cat takes them. What now? Here’s how to get the job done without turning your cat into a hissing, spitting pill-hating nightmare:

- First, trying hiding the pill in food such as tuna, peanut butter or cream cheese – provided that your veterinarian has said that the medication can be given with food. But watch to be sure that your cat actually takes the pill. Some cats will eat the food and spit out the medicine.

- If hiding the pill in food doesn’t work, you are going to have to administer it physically. Unless you have a wonderfully accommodating cat, start by having a friend hold your cat’s front legs and chest to keep her still. You can also try wrapping her snugly in a blanket or towel.

- Firmly grasp your cat’s head. If you are right-handed use your left hand; if you are a lefty, use your right hand. Put your thumb on one side of your cat’s face and your fingers on the other. Avoid holding the lower jaw and make sure you don’t squeeze the throat. Otherwise, you’ll choke the cat.

- Once your cat’s head is held in place, raise her nose to point toward the ceiling. Her mouth should start to open.

- Place the pill between the thumb and forefingers of your other hand. Use your little finger, ring finger or middle finger to open your cat’s mouth further by applying pressure on her lower front teeth.

- After the mouth is fully open, place the pill as far back in the mouth as possible. Avoid placing your hand too far into your cat’s mouth or she might gag. If this happens she may spit the pill back out.

- Close your cat’s mouth and hold it closed. Gently and briefly rub your cat’s nose, or blow on it. This should stimulate her to lick her nose, causing her to swallow. You can also try to stimulate swallowing by rubbing your cat’s throat. If none of that works, tilt your cat’s head back a little and try again.

- Always remember to praise your cat and maybe give her a treat. This will make future medicine times less traumatic.

Final tip, if your vet approves, it may be a good idea to try this process after your cat has eaten. She may well be calmer and more receptive then.