New Cats On The Blog

The 2 most commonly used feline vaccines are killed and modified-live vaccines. Killed vaccines are incapable of producing disease and cannot replicate themselves within a vaccinated animal. Modified-live vaccines cannot, for the most part, include clinical disease, but they can replicate themselves within a vaccinated animal. The choice between killed and modified-live vaccines is influenced by circumstances. A veterinarian confident of obtaining effective immunity by using killed vaccine because it does not contain live virus.

Modified-live vaccines are chosen when a faster, more broad-based immune system response is desired because modified-live viruses continue to replicate in the vaccinated animal. They inspire the animal’s immune system to respond more rapidly with greater vigor than it would to be a killed-vaccine injection. Indeed, modified-live vaccines confer long-lasting protection from a single dose. Modified-live vaccines are also the only kind of vaccine that can be administered intranasally. This becomes a consideration when it is necessary to vaccinate against specific viruses that enter the body through nasal passages e.g. the upper respiratory viruses. Intranasal inoculations produce a special type of local immune response on the linings of the nasal passages. This response – which can be important in blocking the early phase of infection at the source – may not be as readily produced from systemic vaccination paths.

For every plus there is often a minus, and vaccines are no exception. Killed vaccines do not provoke as broad a range of response as modified-live vaccines do and there is a slightly greater chance that the preparation of killed vaccines will produce extraneous material in the vaccine – which could cause an adverse reaction. But this is not as much a problem today as it once was. Moreover, killed vaccines do not confer adequate protection in 1 dose. Consequently, a second or third injection should be administered at 4-weeks intervals following the initial vaccination.

For their part, modified-live vaccines have the exceedingly slight potential of reverting to a virulent form capable of producing disease instead of preventing it. (Reversion to virulence occurs infrequently and is incriminated more often that it should be). In addition, modified-live vaccines are less stable than other forms and may be able to infect a developing fetus if administered to a pregnant cat. (Modified-live vaccines are also dangerous for cats with corneal ulcers).

Queens should be vaccinated before breeding or at least at midterm of their pregnancy (with killed vaccines only) because queens cannot pass on antibodies through their milk to nursing kittens if they (the queens) do not possess those antibodies. Kittens should be vaccinated for the first time when they are 6 – 8 weeks old. After they have received their kitten vaccination(s), they should receive booster shots annually. Cats being shown regularly should be vaccinated every 6 months.

Feline upper-respiratory problems, a frequent occurrence in catteries, are caused by viral or bacterial infections, acting singly or in consort. Diagnosis and treatment of upper respiratory problems are often difficult because the symptoms of infection – sneezing, coughing and nasal discharge – are common to several upper respiratory diseases. Futhermore, analogous symptoms can be produced by allergic reactions to inhaled substances.

Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR)
This herpes-virus infection is one of the most vexing – and most habitual – diseases that affect catteries. The first episode of infection normally lasts several weeks. Reoccurrences last 3-10 days. After recovering from FVR cats continue to shed the virus intermittently from back of the mouth (oropharynx) for many months, thereby posing an infectious threat to healthy cats are most likely to shed herpes virus during times of stress. In addition, queens infected with FVR as kittens may eventually pass the virus to their young.

Symptoms:
Herpes-virus symptoms can be ocular (occurring in the eyes) or systemic (occurring any other part of the body). Ocular symptoms include keratoconjunctivitis, a painful inflammation of the cornea (the transparent outer portion of the coating of the eye) and the conjunctiva (the mucous membrane that covers the surface of the eyeball and that lines the inner surface of the eyelids). Keratoconjunctivitis, which sometimes leads to corneal ulcers in large-eyed breeds, causes a cat to keep his eyes completely or partially closed and to shed tears copiously.

Systemic symptoms of a herpes-virus infection include rhinitis, an inflammation of the mucous membrane of the nasal passage that causes sneezing and runny nose. Some cats afflicted with herpes virus develop chronic rhinitis and/or sinusitis because of permanent damage to the walls of the nasal passages. Herpes virus can also lead to pneumonia, a potential cause of rapid death in very young cats.

Diagnosis:
Herpes-virus infections can be diagnosed by examining nasal, ocular or oral secretions and by checking cell scrapings from the conjunctiva for cellular changes.

Treatment:
Treatments includes antiviral drugs in the form of eye drops, antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infections and if necessary, intravenous fluids. In chronic cases the nasal passages can be kept clear with a dose of Neosynephrine or the equivalent administered every other day. Steroids (cortisone) are not recommended because they can reactivate the infection, suppress the immune system and prevent corneal ulcers from healing.

Prevention:
Prevention is best accomplished by vaccination, good cattery hygiene and by avoiding overcrowding in the cattery. (If you have so many cats you cannot give each one fifteen to twenty minutes worth of individual attention each day, your cattery is over-crowded) Because FVR and other upper respiratory infections are spread primarily through direct contact between infected and susceptible cats, breeders/owners should isolate all new cats they acquire, any cats that have just seen shown and cats that have just returned after having been sent out for breeding.

Quarantine should last for at least 2 weeks. Moreover, because upper respiratory viruses are airborne, ventilation that allows 10 air exchanges per hour in the cattery room(s) is essential, so is a reasonably low humidity level and the regular use of disinfectants. The herpes virus can survive only 18-24 hours at room temperature)

Feline Calicivirus (FCV)
Caliciviruses occur in the numerous strains, some which cannot be prevented by vaccinations. Roughly 20% of all cats shed caliciviruses, whose principal victims in catteries are kittens. Caliciviruses are shed in faeces and saliva and are able to survive for 1 or 2 weeks at room temperature.

Symptoms:
These include fever, limping and blisters ranging in size from pinpoint to large and occurring on the palate or tongue. Ulcers may also appear on the lips, nose and limbs. In general, calicivirus infections are milder than FVR infections.

Diagnosis:
Calicivirus infections are diagnosed by examining cultures taken from the throat, nose or eyes.

Treatment:
The best treatment is supportive care, a well balanced diet, plenty of liquids, and a warm environment. A soft-food diet will allow lesions to heal. Chronic cases should be tested for FeLV (Feline Leukemia) and FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency) infections.

Prevention:
Vaccination, for those strains of calicivirus for which vaccines are available is the most effective form of preventive treatment, good cattery management, including management if the cattery population is also important.

Chlamydia psittaci
This is another common bacterial infection that often occurs in catteries. Kittens of weaning age (when the immunity they acquire through their mother’s milk is virtually depleted) are the primary victims. They are usually infected through contact with other adult cats or older kittens, the chlamydia psittaci bacteria is transmitted in faeces and in discharges from the eyes and nose. Cats that recover from a chlamydia psittaci infection may become carriers, and because they often do not develop strong immunity to the disease, they are subject to reoccurring infections.

Symptoms:
The primary symptom is conjunctivitis in one or both eyes. Severe conjunctivitis of the unopened eyes of newborn kittens is also possible. Very young kittens (2-4 weeks old) may develop pneumonia, which is nearly fatal. Evidence of a respiratory problem is not readily evident in such cases. The kitten seems to die for no apparent cause. Chlamydia may also cause reproductive problems and abortions in pregnant queens.

Diagnosis:
Diagnosis of chlamydia can be made by examining conjunctival scrapings or through an immunological test (IFA test).

Treatment:
Tetracycline or its derivatives is the best treatment for chlamydial infections. The treatment time may be long and it should be continued for 2 weeks after the disappearance of any observable symptoms.

Prevention:
Preventive measures include vaccinations and good cattery hygiene. Do not vaccinate pregnant queens, however, or allow other recently vaccinated cats to come into contact with pregnant queens. This contact could cause abortions.

Mycoplasma
This is another bacterial infection common in catteries. It is transmitted in ocular discharges from infected cats. Cats that recover from a mycoplasma infection may become carriers.

Symptoms:
Symptoms are mainly ocular and consist of a mildly painful conjunctivitis in one or both eyes. Symptoms usually develop when kittens are about 3 or 4 weeks old. Mycoplasma infections may induce abortions in pregnant queens.

Diagnosis:
Diagnosis is made by examining conjunctival scrapings or cultures taken from affected cats.

Treatment:
As is the case with chlamydia infections, tetracyclines or their derivatives are the best treatment for chlamydial infections. These treatments last for 2 weeks. Tetracycline is static for this bacteria, e.g. it does not destroy bacteria cells; it impedes their ability to synthesize protein, thereby causing a slowing or stoppage of the bacteria’s replication. Thus a cat’s immune system must cooperate in warding off the infection.

Prevention:
There is no mycoplasma vaccine presently available, so good cattery hygiene and avoiding overcrowding in the cattery are vital.

Although the symptoms of upper-respiratory infections are similar, treatments of these diseases differ. If you suspect a problem with your cats, do not attempt treatment without first getting a confirmed diagnosis and treatment recommendations from your vet. Prevention, as always is the best medicine. Therefore, you should make vaccinations a routine part of your normal cattery hygiene.

Taken from FIFE news

Your cat goes for your ankles when you’re just walking past or suddenly bites you while you’re cuddling her, for no apparent reason. I’ll explain the motivations behind aggressive feline behavior and how to address them.

Play aggression
Play-motivated aggressive behaviors are commonly observed in young active cats less than 2 years of age, that live in 1-cat households. Play incorporates a variety of behaviors such as exploratory, investigative and predatory and provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival. For example, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on and bite objects that resemble prey.

Playful aggression often occurs when an unsuspecting owner comes down the stairs, rounds a corner or even moves under the bedcovers while sleeping. These playful attacks may result in scratches and inhibited bites that don’t break the skin. People sometimes inadvertly initiate aggressive behavior by encouraging their cat to chase or bite at their hands and feet during play. The body postures seen during play aggression resemble the postures a cat would normally show when searching for or catching prey. A cat may freeze in a low crouch before pouncing, twitch her tail, flick her ears back and forth, or wrap her front feet around a person’s hands or feet while biting. Most play aggression can be successfully redirected to appropriate targets.

Outlets for play
The first strategy is to provide many opportunities each day for your cat to play in an acceptable manner. Have toys available that are interesting from your cat’s point of view and allow your cat to show her own individual style and favorite ways to play. You may need to experiment to see which toys your particular cat prefers. It is also helpful to provide new toys (or at least rotate the availability of the ones you have) once their novelty wears off.

Owners should avoid wrestling or using their hands and feet as toys for playfully aggressive cats. This type of play only encourages the cat to grab and/or bite your flesh as part of its normal play. Try using a stuffed sock, fishing pole type toys or catnip mice to encourage your cat to re-direct her playful energy.

Remote forms of punishment may be used as a means of discouraging inappropriate play only if the cat also has opportunities for acceptable play. Some methods for remote punishment, which startle the cat but do not involve you physically interacting with the cat include using a squirt bottle filled with water, using noise making devices such as horns from a bike or giving the cat a puff of air in the face from a can of compressed air.

Hitting or slapping a playfully aggressive cat is NOT acceptable. This approach seldom corrects the problem and can have some nasty results. Your cat may become more aggressive, afraid of you or both. Punishment alone is never an effective treatment.

Stop petting me now
Some cats will suddenly bite while they’re being petted. This behavior isn’t well understood even by behaviorists. For whatever reason, petting which the cat was previously enjoying apparently becomes unpleasant. Biting is the cat’s signal that she has had enough petting. Cats vary in how much they’ll tolerate being petted or held. Although often people describe their cats as biting ‘out of the blue’ or without warning, cats do generally give several signals before biting.

You should become more aware of your cat’s body postures and cease petting or stop any other kind of interaction before a bite occurs. Signals to be aware of include restlessness, the tail beginning to twitch, the ears turning back or flicking back and forth and your cat turning or moving her head toward your hand.

When you observe any of these signs, it’s time to stop petting your cat immediately and allow her to sit quietly on your lap or go her own way, whichever she prefers. Any kind of physical punishment almost always makes the problem worse because your cat is more likely to bite either because she is fearful or because petting becomes even more unpleasant if it’s associated with punishment.

If you want to prolong the amount of time your cat will tolerate petting, try using more food rewards. When your cat first begins to show any of the behaviors described above (or even before she does so) offer her a special tidbit. At the same time, decrease the intensity of your petting. Continue to lightly pet her a little longer each time using the food as a reward. Be sure to stop the petting before she shows any aggression. If a display of aggression results in the petting being stopped, then you are telling you cat that her unacceptable behavior has worked.

Other types of aggression
Defensive, territorial, redirected and idiopathic (with an unknown cause) forms of cat aggression can be quite serious and usually require professional help to resolve. Cats who are fearful may display body postures, which appear to be similar to canine submissive postures – crouching on the floor, ears back, tail tucked and possibly rolling slightly to the side. Cats in this posture are not submissive; they are fearful and defensive and may attack if touched.

Any cat that suddenly becomes aggressive should be taken to your regular vet for a complete examination. Certain kinds of diseases, illness or physical conditions such as abscessed bite wounds can cause cats to show aggression. Medical causes for the behavior should be evaluated before the problem is assumed to be behavioral. If the aggression is due to a behavioral problem, ask your vet to refer you to a professional who is knowledgeable and experienced in working with cats.

If you are tired of smelling or tripping over your cat’s litter box, there are a few innovative solutions you can try. However, before deciding on a place for your cat to do his business, it’s important to know what is important to your cat.

Cats tend to be very fussy about their litter boxes and the correct placement is of extreme importance. Some cats may hate to share a litter box with other cats and some may also refuse to poo and pee in the same litter box. Therefore, one may require preparing more than a litter box in a household.

Privacy, please
Cats like privacy when they eliminate because of a primal fear of being ambushed by an enemy when their guard is down. A spare bathroom would be ideal or a spare bedroom. If space is a problem, consider using an inexpensive screen in the corner of a living room or bedroom.

Quiet, please
Try to avoid a busy area in your house and if you put the litter box in a utility room, place it far enough away from appliances so that the noise from washers and dryers don’t stress the cat.

Hygiene, please
Aside from sanitary reasons, respect your cat’s fastidious nature by keeping the litter box separated from their food and water dishes.

In the bath
When you think about it, what better place is there for a litter box than the bathroom. It meets all of the criteria for good placement, such as privacy and easy access. You may even be able to place the box in the bathtub, making it easier to keep the surrounding area tidy.

Behind cabinet doors
You may have some extra space in an unused cabinet in the kitchen or bathroom. This allows you the same convenience of expensive litter box cabinets. You can either leave the door ajar or install a small kitty door. Cabinet space is usually sufficient to contain litter supplies as well.

Don’t trap your cat
Some cats like to play mind games with other cats, and will lie in wait to intimidate the other as he tries to leave the litter box. Try to put the litter box in a location that will eliminate this possibility.

Keep the doors open
Even if you’ve found the perfect spot for your litter box, the effort will be wasted if you forget and close the doors to those rooms. Make sure your cats can always reach their litter boxes.

5 fast facts about Abyssinian
Weight
Medium-sized, weighing aroung 4 to 7.5kg

Average lifespan
Lives to about 11 to 15 years

Personality
Strong and independent, sociable and affectionate. The Aby is also talkative, but has a quiet voice. Exuburance in kittens mellow with age.

Favourite activities
Loves exploring its surroundings, performing antics, just keeping an active lifestyle.

Tender loving care
Requires only weekly brushing ans combing. Baths can be given to the Aby once a month, or when necessary. For a shiny coat, you can rub it with a chamois cloth.

Life with the Abyssinians is never boring. A colorful feline know for its energy and striking ticked pattern, the Aby is still popular till this day, with cat lovers who enjoy busy, active and playful cats.

Although the Abyssinian is one of the oldest known breeds, there continues to be speculation and controversy concerning its history. Some breeders prefer to believe that Abyssinians are the most ancient of breeds and they were both companions and gods of Egyptians. In appearance, Abyssinians resemble the paintings and sculptures of ancient Egyptian cats that portray an elegant feline with a muscular body, beautiful arched neck, large ears and almond shaped eyes. Abys today still retain the jungle look of ‘felis lybica‘, the African wildcat ancestor of all domestic cats.

A ruddy Abyssinian

Like so many other breeds, the Abyssinian is not without its legends but the truth of the matter is that the Abyssinian is more at home on the Thames, England than on the Nile. The British hand-tailored a group of cats that they called Abyssinians. The source of the name is not because Ethiopia, formerly Abyssinia, is thought to be the original home of these cats but because the first Abyssinian exhibited at a show in England was reported to have been imported from that country. This cat was brought from Abyssinia at the conclusion of the war. British troops left Abyssinia in May 1868, so that may have been the time when cats with ticked coats first entered England.

Unfortunately, there are no written records tracing the early Abyssinians to these imported cats and many British breeders are of the opinion that the breed was actually created through the crossing of the various existing silver and brown tabbies with native British ‘Bunny’ ticked cats.

Recent studies by geneticts show that the most convincing origin of the Abyssinian breed is the coast of the Indian Ocean and parts of Southeast Asia. The first breed standard for the Aby appeared in the Cat Fancier’s Association in 1916. Since then, it has captured the hearts of many cat lovers all over the world.

A red / sorrel Abyssinian

The Aby has a distinctly ticked coat, is medium in size and regal in appearance. The heard is a modified, slightly rounded wedge without flat planes and should flow into the arched neck without a break. The ears are alert, large and moderately pointed; broad and cupped at the base and set as though listening. The eyes are almond shaped, large and expressive, being neither round nor oriental. A fine dark line, encircled by a light colored area should accentuate the eyes. A ring of dark color on the eyelids accentuates the eyes making the cat appear to be wearing black eyeliner. It was said that the women of ancient Egypt patterned their eye makeup after this trait. The color of the eyes can be either gold or green.

The body is medium long, lithe, graceful with well-developed musculature that is not coarse. It is medium in conformation and should not be either cobby or too svelte, most importantly; an Aby is a balanced cat. It is fine boned and stands well off the ground, giving it the appearance of being on tip toe. The tail is fairly long, thick at the base and tapering.

Another trait that sets the Aby part is the ticked or agouti coat pattern, characterized by alternating bands of color on the hair shafts. Each individual hair is decorated with light-colored bands contrasted with the dark-colored bands. The lighter or ground color lies closest to the skin, and the hair shaft ends with a dark tip. This gives the coat a distinctive stippled appearance. The coat is medium in length, long enough to accommodate 2 or 3 bands of ticking. The tabby ‘M’ decorates the forehead. The coat is soft, silky, fine in texture but dense and resilient to the touch.

Abys now come in various colors with different pairings of colored bands. The usual Aby has an apricot undercoat ticked with black. The sorrel is also apricot but ticked with chocolate. The blue is mushroom pink ticked with blue-gray and the fawn is pinky-cream ticked with a darker shade.

A fawn Abyssinian

The Aby is not for you are looking for a lap cat. They are not content to lie around and just be admired. Abyssinians love to be where you are. They interact with their owners and often enjoy the company of another cat. Courage’s, curious and high-spirited. Abys give new meaning to the word ‘active’ to felines. They perform antics for your amusement, earning them the reputation as the clowns of the cat kingdom. They perch on shoulders, crawl under covers and sit beside you purring loudly before dashing off to make flying leaps at the tallest bookcases. They are natural athletes, and no room or cupboard is safe from their agile paws and inquiring minds.

The normal Abyssinian is almost steadily on the move unless it is eating or sleeping. These cats constantly seem to patrol their territory – unless something catches their interest. When their interest is piqued, they tend to pay attention intensively to whatever is happening, at least until the next interesting thing happens or they decide that whatever is happening is really not all that interesting anyway. Looking at birds through a window can be a captivating pastime until they hear a can opener or find something else of more interest.

Abys are incredibly playful, even into adulthood. Everything they do seem to be larger than life. When they play they give over 100%, sometimes not seeming to worry about the life or limb! They can amuse themselves for many minutes at a time with a given toy over many months, and then decide they do not ever want to play with it again. Mechanical toys such as wind up toys can be a problem since as soon as they winds down, you either have to wind it up again or they will just ignore it. Abyssinians can amuse themselves with a paper ball or a plastic bottle cap just as well as with expensive, elaborate cat toys. They are very good at training humans to play fetch.

A blue Abyssinian

When restrained, Abys tend to become struggling bundles of fur with more than the usual number of elbows. However, that’s not to say that Abyssinians are not affectionate. Abys are loving and loyal and are most happy when involved in every aspect of your life. The Aby becomes your friend, your confidant and your devoted companion who loves you unconditionally. She is there to comfort you when you’re feeling down and they’re to share your joy when you’re happy. And she is certainly there to share your food at dinnertime. All that activity burns a lot of calories.

They seem to be more inclined to use their paws like human would use their hands. It is often said that Abys have a great love of water. They seem to enjoy playing with a dripping faucet, as well as drinking from them.

For the most part Abyssinians are fairly low maintenance cats. They do enjoy being hand rubbed and it is not a bad idea to give these cats a bath once a month. Washing with any good pet shampoo, a quick toweling off and allowing them to drip dry is all that is needed. Bathing of Abyssinians should be started when they are young and should always be preceded by a good claw clipping.

For people who want a piece of the wild kingdom and who would like an active, independent, loving cat, this ancient breed may be just right. These mischievous, animated shorthair cats with their iridescent, sparkling, colorful coats can provide years of pleasure to any household. It is not a mystery why people who have once lived with an Aby often will not have anything else as a pet…

Buying pedigree breeds is one thing, but maintaining them requires long-term commitment, money and time. For 2 cat owners, the monthly expenses are no big deals. Owning a pedigree pet is rewarding in itself – almost like the joy of raising a child.

Dr Moonyza Akmal, who owns Persian cats, knows how much it costs to own a pedigree. She has four imported Persians and they cost her RM40,000. The maintenance of her long-haired cats does not come cheap either. Dr Moonyza uses seven types of shampoos to bathe her cats. The first is to de-grease oil from the cats’ fur, followed by anti-septic for the skin before she uses tearless baby shampoo and cleanser to ensure the cats are really clean.

Added to these is a pure white lightening that is used on her cream-coloured Persians. Lastly, Dr Moonyza uses a conditioner for easy grooming and brushing. A special type of hair-dryer blows their coats because air emitted from normal ones are too hot. Though she spends about RM100 on each of her cats a month on premium health supplements, Dr Moonyza is not complaining. “Time spent fussing over my cats is rewarding,” she said. “I may take about two hours bathing and drying each Persian, or spend more time wiping away their tears (Persians tend to tear always), but they hold special places in my heart.”

Adilah Roose, who keeps Abyssinians, could not agree more. The ancient, rare pedigree cat (said to number less than 20 in Malaysia) may have short hair, but its expenses can be quite a sum nevertheless. Besides dry food, which Adilah buys in several large packs for the cats’ different coats, she also whips up her own wet food recipte. Besides these, there are also the B-complex supplements to make the cats radiant with wonderful coats.

Adilah doesn’t mind forking out hundreds of ringgit a month for the pets she adores.

“I don’t look at keeping cats as an investment; it is a love affair,” said Adilah. “When you love your cat, you don’t mind the amount.”

“Abyssinians are active and smart cats. They need new toys each time to keep them occupied.”

Found your dream partner, your perfect beau? What happens when you realize that he or she is not too fond of the other great love of your life, that four-legged ball of fluff?

For the gals; He’s everything you ever wanted in a man, intelligent, attentive, romantic and charming. He also has an almost pathological aversion to cats. You have three!!!

For the guys; You’ve had your faithful Maine Coon for more than 5 years and would never dream of getting rid of him. She hates big, slobby cats that shed like it’s going out of style.

For either one of you: He/She spends more time catering to the needs of that cat than to yours. Enough already!

It’s nightmare all cat lovers dread. They’ve met someone they think they can spend the rest of their lives with, only to come down to earth with a crash when they realize there’s no love lost between their partners and their animal companions.

So how does one avoid this pitfall? The obvious solution is to screen your mate carefully for signs of anti-cat characteristics. This is not always easy to do because people are usually on their best behavior at the beginning of a relationship.

There are two truisms about new relationships and pets: A cat-hating man/woman often hides his/her dislike for animals of the feline persuasion or he/she can’t stand cats often makes the effort to pretend to get along with Garfield. He/She may even bring the cat gifts.

They may have an ulterior motive. For example, they intend to address the issue later in the relationship with an “it’s him or me” ultimatum. Or they may genuinely not realize that a pet is more than just an object that you feed, clean and throw a toy once in a while.

Love me, love my cat
Either way, it’s better to take the extra time to find someone who shares your critical interests, the one you feel most strongly about. The saying that “opposites attract” is often just a saying; they often repel with much greater force than they attract.

Your partner needs to respect and appreciate the things you love. If keeping a cat is important to you, it should be important to him/her. Fortunately, many discover the latent love for animals. Many who profess to not liking cats sometimes do, though they’d never admit it to their friends.

There is a third scenario that is much more common: Even if you screen carefully and the person you choose truly likes animals, there is no guarantee that your pet will like him or her.

A tip for humans trying to get into their partner’s cat’s good books: If a cat doesn’t like you, you might try feeding him but otherwise just ignore him. Let the cat approach you on his own terms. Try playing with the cat at the same time each day or offering it treats. The cat will grow to appreciate the routine.

Breaking up is hard to do
If the two can’t be reconciled even to tolerating each other, you’ve got a tough decision. In making it, keep in mind that when someone accepts you, they are accepting all of you and vice versa. Of course, that doesn’t give you an excuse to devote all your time to your pet and precious few to your partner.

A familiar complaint is that a spouse or companion is more concerned with a cat than with them. If this is the case, that person may not realize it. You may try keeping a journal of how often he or she talks about the cat or spend time doing things for the pet over you in a given week, day or hour. Afterwards, you’ll have a basis from which the both of you can thrash things out.

One more thing to remember about pets and couples: When there are problems in the relationship, people may avoid talking about the real issues by focusing on the pet or some other activity. Don’t resent the pet; the important thing is to have a frank talk with your mate. Animals are very sensitive to negative feelings of their humans and hearing their name mentioned in raised, angry tones in an argument will make your pet feel insecure and fearful.

If you’re going nowhere in your attempts to negotiate a friendship between your human companion and your four-legged one, don’t push the matter. Some people just don’t form the kind of intimacy with animals that you find is second nature to you. If they can live peacefully together and the cat doesn’t exhibit behavioral problems such as marking the person’s shoes, that’s fine. Once you have stopped obsessing about the problem, animals can sense it, which will make for a less anxious and happier pet.

We all know that moving house is stressful but it can just as stressful for your cats too, if you do not plan your move with them in mind. Here are some suggestions to minimize the moving headaches for both you and your cats.

Planning the big move
Most of us will move house at least once or twice in our lifetimes. What can be an exciting new start for humans often terrifying and disorienting to cats. Some people just toss their cats in the car and go. But if you really want to make the move smooth for your cats and aid their adjustment, communication and preparation are the order of the day.

Your animals will see you box all your belongings and disassemble rooms. As the familiarity goes, insecurity and fear can set in. Will they be gong too? To reassure them that they’re part of the deal, make them part of the process. Taking time to communicate will help ease your cats’ anxiety. And even if you don’t believe in this sort of things, it doesn’t hurt to go over your plans with your cats anyway to make sure you haven’t forgotten anything.

When planning the placement of your furniture in your new house, don’t forget the locations of your cats’ things such as water and food dish, bed, litter box or play pen. Travel arrangements on your actual day of the move would also have to be on your agenda. Whether you are hiring someone to sit your cats while you are busy tasking the movers or you are shifting them yourself, your cats need to be your responsibility. If you feel that your household is counting on you to oversee the move, it would be wise to pass that responsibility to someone who has less duties but at all times do know where your cat is on the actual day of the move and their condition.

Cats are notoriously suspicious of charge within their environment, so imagine how a house move might affect your cats. If your cat is particularly sensitive and it is convenient for you, you may choose to board him at a reputable cattery for a few days over the moving period.

What To Pack?
Cats may become distressed or anxious during the upheaval of packing, so confine them to a quiet room where they can rest and be safe. Begin packing non-essential items several weeks in advance, leaving your cat’s possessions alone until you are close to the move date. Try to minimize the impact of their routine. Do not wash bedding until a couple of weeks after the move, so that they will have something familiar smelling in the new house.

When it is time to pack up your cat’s items, keep them all together. When you arrive at your new home, you can quickly unpack all that they know and love to help ease their transition in their new space.

Moving Day!
Confine your cat to one secure room with its toys and bed so that escape and injury cannot occur whilst people are going in and out of the house. Make sure your cat is safely secured in the car or vehicle that they are to be transported in to the new house with a travel crate or car harness on the back seat.

Cats are notorious for getting into trouble during the moving process since they are particularly sensitive to stress. Put a notice on the door to remind family members and the removers that the door should remain shut.

When it’s time to go, put your cat in their carriers with a familiar blanket and transport them, properly secured with a seat belt in the car – either wedged securely in the back or in the well behind the seats. Don’t put them in the removal van or the boot of the car.

Settling In
Try to unpack the essentials before introducing your cats to the new house so that they can see familiar items with then unfamiliar house. If possible, place furniture and items in similar places to those in the old house. Be patient with your cats in the new home and make allowances for ‘accidents’ on the carpet if they should happen. Quietly pick up the mess and clean the area to properly remove the smell. Once your cat has settled in, the accidents should stop. Always praise them when they go to the toilet in the correct spot.

Some cats walk into a new house, curl up in a favorite chair and never look back. Others take time to adjust to their own surroundings but you can help them to settle in. Cats will rub their heads and bodies on furniture, walls, doors etc to lay down scent from glands, which are situated mostly on the head. Rubbing their own scent around house increases their feeling of security. You can help this process by rubbing a soft cotton cloth gently around the cat’s face to pick up its personal profile. Then dab this, at cat’s height, around the rooms where he will initially be exploring. Repeat this daily, widening the areas where you impose his scent. Use food and a regular routine to help during the adjustment period. Small frequent meals will give you more contact initially and help to reassure your cat that all is well.

The transition from old to new will not happen overnight. There will be times when you will fear that they will never forgive you for uprooting them. But they always do. That’s the beauty of animals.

Recognizing the signs of arthritis
- Reluctance to walk, climb stairs, jump or play
- Difficulty performing routine movements including rising from a resting position.
- Limping
- Yelping in pain when touched or resisting touch
- Change in personality
- Audible clicking when walking

Noticed that fluffy is limping or using one side of his/her body more? We bring you the myths and facts concerning arthritis, which strikes among felines and how to make life comfortable for your arthritic pet.

Myth: Arthritis only strikes humans and it’s not a pet disease.
Fact: Our cats are just as susceptible to the disease as we are. Arthritis is a condition in which an animal’s joints become inflamed. It is accompanied by pain, heat and swelling in the joints and it usually results in increasing stiffness and immobility. The symbol of arthritis can be hard to distinguish. Animals can’t complain about their aching joints, so all that cat “parents” see is a response to pain. Many illnesses may mimic the symptoms of arthritis, so it must be properly diagnosed.

Myth: There is no known treatment for arthritis for pets
Fact: There are countless types of treatments available for the treatment of arthritis for cats. In recent years, many new medications have made the treatment of arthritis much more promising. Your vet may prescribe steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs to decrease the swelling in joints and make movement easier. It is important that you not try to medicate your cat’s arthritis on your own, and human anti-inflammatory and supplements can be dangerous for cats as well.

Surgery is also an option for some animals with arthritis, particularly younger cats. Veterinary surgeons can try to reconstruct joints to give them more stability or they may perform an arthroscopy to remove chips of damaged bone. In some large breed, vets will choose to replace the entire hip joint.

Many pet owners and veterinarians are turning to complementary or holistic therapies to reduce arthritis symptoms. Acupuncture is becoming increasingly popular as a treatment for chronic pain, for example. Massage is also gaining support, as it benefits cats both physically and emotionally.

Myth: Arthritis strikes any cat, with no warning and there is no way to prevent it.
Fact: Arthritis can affect cats of any age and breed but certain risk factors increase a cat’s susceptibility to the disease.

Obesity
Studies shown hat obese cats are likely to develop osteoarthritis 3 years earlier on average than lean and healthy ones.

Joint abnormalities
Joint conditions such as Hip dysplasia can increase a cat’s risk of developing osteoarthritis because it puts excessive stress on the animal’s joints.

Joint stress & trauma injuries
Getting hit by a car that damages ligaments, tissues or bones also increase an animal’s risk of developing osteoarthritis. In addition, high-activity cats in demanding activities put repeated stress on their joints. This chronic ligamentous injury makes them more susceptible to osteoarthritis.

Out of all these factors, there is one that helps in reducing the risk of arthritis in cats that you, as the owner can help and control. Obesity in pets is said to be the leading cause of arthritis after genetic predisposition. Keeping your cat’s weight at a healthy level will help prevent the onset arthritis.

Even with treatment, arthritis makes animals less able to deal with physical challenges of their world. A few alterations around the house can help your arthritic pet to move around more easily and confidently.
- Keep litter boxes, food and water dishes at a comfortable height, easily accessible and on a non-slip surface such as rubber mat or piece of carpet. In a multi-level house, keep them on every floor.
- Supply a padded surface to cushion your pet’s joints while he/she sits or sleeps. Use cat beds, beanbags or mattresses. Place padding in a warm, draft-free spot.
- Some pets that are too stiff to use the stairs will try to use them regardless, possibly falling and hurting themselves in the process. Supervise your pet when she is using the stairs and use a baby gate to keep the steps off limits the rest of the time.
- Groom your pet regularly as animals lose flexibility in their joints, they can’t reach around to scratch or groom themselves the way they used to. Cats particularly may develop matted or dirty fur, which is very upsetting to a finicky feline! Regular brushing will help your cat feel comfortable and allow you to spend some quiet, affectionate time with him/her.

Your closest ally in your battle against the disease is your vet. Arthritis may well change your life with your pet but it certainly doesn’t mean that life is over. You may not get your cat jump up after the feather toy but you can replace these lost activities with time being near your cat. Your energetic, playful friendship may eventually be replaced with the joy of a gentle, caring life together.