New Cats On The Blog

... your One-Stop about the happenings in Asian cat fancy

Hairless cats are said to have appeared in various countries over the years, (including Australia) but the Sphynx is the result of the first attempts to cultivate a “hairless” breed. There have of course been others, since, such as the Don Sphynx and the Peterbald, but the Sphynx is the original hairless cat of the 1900’s. Indeed, hairlessness infrequently occurs in some pedigreed breeds Birman and oriental particularly, in Aline Noel’s experience - but in such cases the kittens do not survive beyond a few weeks, as the gene is lethal in these cases. This is not true of the Sphynx. Deriving from Canada where a moggy produced hairless kittens, the Sphynx, as we know it now is the result of carefully conducted breeding programmes in Europe and North America. They are Hr (recessive), which is a further mutation from Devon.

The Sphynx has had a short and somewhat checkered career. Recognized by TICA (The International Cat Association, based in the USA) it was at one stage also recognized by CFA (Cat Fanciers’ Association - USA) but that recognition was withdrawn because of perceived health problems. (Ed Note: CFA provisional rec. Feb 98 was last year amended to championship status.)

Perceived health problems or not, the breed has survived and multiplied in North America and in Europe. Aline and the late Philippe Noel, (”Amenophis” prefix) French breeder/judges for TICA, were devotees of the breed for many years, and disputed that there are any more inherent problems in the Sphynx breed than one might find in others.

Sphynx are now recognized by FIFe (Federation Internationale Feline d’Europe) Recognition was mooted as long ago as 1982, when six Sphynxes of Canadian derivation were presented for inspection by a panel of six FIFe All Breeds judges (including the writer) at a show run by Felikat, at the Rai Pavilion, in Amsterdam. Unfortunately, at the time, it was felt that type was not really consistent, the gene pool limited, and the numbers too few to fulfill FIFe requirements for recognition of a breed. (They were subsequently bred with Devon Rex and the type became more consistent, though according to Aline, some lines tended to resemble Devon head type rather too closely.) Undeterred, the Dutch and French breeders pursued their plan and it is now common to see many Sphynx at FIFe shows, particularly in UK.

The Noels’ cats were directly descended from those presented in 1982, but displayed distinctive type, among other consistent characteristics. Different breeders have followed different courses to achieve their aims, with some outcrossing to Devon and others to Cornish Rex while others have bred to domestics, to widen the gene pool that was extremely limited. Aline abhors the practice of crossing to Devon, and feels that in terms of type, it is counter-productive, and produces hairless “neither/nors” which can and do look merely like bald Cornish or Devons. She was also wary of the dangers of introducing Devon myopathy into the (thus far) “clean” Sphynx lines. (Ed note: this has indeed now happened; I have judged such a cat in South Africa and there was a litter of affected kittens reported in Canada within the last 2 years.)

Precocious in every way, Sphynx are invariably born with their eyes open, or at the latest, opening at 1 day, and thus for a period tend to be prey to glaucoma. This is averted if baby eyes are attended to with drops. Newborns are incredibly wrinkled, and typically, heavy at birth. (120g is not uncommon) Tiny kittens’ skin is almost translucent, particularly in paler colors, in which the dark liver and veins can sometimes be made out, under the skin. The pale sections of skin darken with age.

The temperature is the same as in other cat breeds, but the metabolism of the Sphynx is much faster, and they eat LOTS more than other cats! The paler they are in color, the more they tend to sweat, (normally, sweat spreads up the hair shaft) and they are definitely not allergy free despite their lack of coat; because their saliva is spread regularly and liberally all over their bodies, they are disastrous for those with allergies.

While wrinkles are definitely not desirable in humans, with Sphynx it’s a case of the more, the merrier, according to most standards. From whisker pads to tail-base, they should be wrinkled, although they tend to put on weight during winter, with consequent wrinkle-loss in all but the “moving parts” - the extremities. Occasionally one sees an over-wrinkled Sphynx, but these are so because they are too long and lean. Interestingly, Fife’s standard does not place emphasis on extreme wrinkling; there is a cautionary note that they should not be so wrinkled as to provide potential health/cleanliness problems for the cat.

The belly should always look as though the cat had just eaten, (which it probably has!) and should at all times be shaped like a Perrier bottle. They have drumstick thighs and very obviously rounded muscles, and a long, rat-like tail. Legs are bandy, and the chest is very “open” and prominent. First, it should remind you of a bulldog, and second, of a chicken chest, with a prominent breastbone. It is not a small cat.

Legs are nonetheless finely built under that muscle, and the feet are long, with distinctive platform soled paw pads, which Aline refers to as “like cushions”. (Interestingly and perhaps more than coincidentally, when judging Devon Rex in Amsterdam in 1984 I was struck by just that phenomenon in many of the cats I handled.)

Sphynx feel like the finest of suede, or like peach fuzz. They have no whiskers, but can still gauge spaces - there goes that theory! They are not totally devoid of hair, as they are allowed fur on tail tip, bridge of nose, scrotum, earmuffs and ear tips. Occasionally, hairier kittens are born and these obviously have no future on the show bench. On which subject, it is not unknown for exhibitors to deal with unwanted hair by using human depilatory creams, the result of which can be injurious to the cat’s skin. This breed heals quickly, and Aline feels this might be because no hair can infiltrate a wound. Interestingly, hormonal females (in season or pregnant) develop more fur on the tail and flanks, but this disappears within a couple of days once the hormone situation reverts to normal.

The head of the Sphynx should not resemble that of any other breed. It has wide, high cheekbones, a gentle dip in profile (not a stop, like a Devon) and a slightly rounded forehead (also, unlike a Devon). The nose is slightly longer than that of the Devon. A vital feature in the head is a very deep and pronounced pinch, which should be both felt and very much visible. Older cats, which have undergone tooth loss, tend to lose the pinch, to an extent. If there is a common failing in Sphynx, the Noels feel it is they tend to be shallow in the chin department.

The ears are very open, and very much a feature of the breed. They are wide at base and large. But they are not so low set as a Devon’s, nor do they deviate so much from the flow of the face shape, with a “Dumbo” effect at the outside, lower level. Baby ears, of course, must be extra prominent if they are to be of respectable proportion in maturity.

If there is one drawback to this delightful, gremlin breed, it is that they suffer from the same syndrome that afflicts small boys - dirty neck syndrome! Because of their wrinkled necks being inaccessible to their tongues, they can get rather grubby in their crevices, and it is necessary for them to be washed with baby soap (lotion) or similar, on a regular basis. The inner thigh can also be a “trouble spot”. Show presentation requires them to be pristine, and indeed, they may need a ‘clean up’ between rings later on during a show day. They can also exude a unique smell.

Reprinted from “ACF 1998” with 2005 amendments
Originally compiled by Lesley Morgan Blythe from information provided by Aline Noel, one of Europe’s pioneer breeders, of “Amenophis” cattery.

CFA Cat Show Malaysia
Location:
Pusat Komuniti Sri Petaling
Jalan Radin, Bandar Baru
Seri Petaling
57100 Kuala Lumpur
Date : 22nd January 2006 (Sunday)

Hi guys,
Went for the show and I must say I really enjoyed myself there not just able to see those gorgeous looking cats but also meeting up friends. The show started about 9.30am and finished by 4pm. It was a 1-ring show and the CFA judge was Donna Fuller from USA. Here are some snap shots…

The cat competition hall…

Many faces of Donna Fuller…

Some handsome & elegant looking cats & kittens…

Some shots on the winning cats & kittens…

I also took the oppurtunity to take some video shots during the show. Juz click the name of the cat and it will bring you to the host server.
(The video files are in WMV format and you must require the latest version of Windows Media Player to play the file. Every file is approximately 10MB in size)

Household Pet category
4th Place Winner: Trey

7th Place: Shawn

8th Place: Samson

For full results of the cat competition, pls refer to the Feline Society of Malaysia blog

Jaundice is actually a condition called icterus, meaning that a yellow pigment is found in the blood and in the tissues. It is most easily seen in the gums, the whites of eyes and the earflaps.

Causes & Symptoms
Risk factors for icterus may include the presence of fleas or ticks, infection with feline leukemia virus or feline infectious peritonitis virus, residence in or travel to areas endemic for liver flukes or fungal diseases, prolonged anorexia and ingestion of drugs or toxins. A yellow color is noted in the skin, white part of the eyes, or on the earflaps. The causes of icterus fall into 3 major categories:

1. Destruction of red blood cells
This can occur within the blood vessels (intravascular) or in the spleen and liver (extravascular). The process of red cell destruction is known as hemolysis.

2. Liver disease
Any disease that causes destruction of liver cells or causes bile to become trapped in the liver can cause icterus.

3. Obstruction of the bile duct
The bile duct carries an important fluid for digestion, bile, from the gall bladder to the small intestine. Obstruction can occur within the gall bladder or anywhere along the bile duct.

Diagnosis
Diagnosis of icterus itself is straightforward. However, determining the cause of icterus can be a challenge and usually requires a series of tests. Within each category listed above are several possible causes of icterus. Once the probable cause can be placed into one of these 3 categories, additional tests are performed to look for a specific disease, which is leading to the icteric state.

Occasionally, blood is drawn and the serum component is found to be yellow before the cat is visibly jaundiced. This information is helpful and can give a clue to impending problems.

Hemolysis
Since hemolysis results in destruction of erythrocytes (red blood cells), determination of erythrocyte numbers is one of the first tests performed on the icteric patient. There are 3 tests, which may be used for this. Toxic plants, chemicals, drugs, parasites in the red blood cells, heartworms, autoimmune diseases and cancer can cause hemolysis. Several tests are needed to determine which of these is the cause.

Liver Disease
A chemistry profile is performed on cats with icterus. This is a group of 20 – 30 tests that are performed on a blood sample. The chemistry profile contains several tests that are specific for liver disease. If these tests are normal yet there is reason to suspect liver disease, a bile acid analysis is performed. Although each of these tests is used to ‘look’ at the liver from a slightly different perspective, ultimately they only determine that liver disease is present. None of them are able to determine the exact cause of the disease, to make that determination; a study of liver tissue (biopsy) or liver cells (cytology) is necessary. This can be done in 3 ways:

1. Fine-needle aspirate cytology
To perform this procedure, a small gauge needle is inserted through the skin into the liver. A syringe is used to aspirate some cells from the liver. The cells are placed on a glass slide, stained and studied under a microscope.

2. Needle biopsy
This procedure is similar to fine-needle aspirate except a much larger needle is used. The needle is able to recover a core of tissue, not just a few cells. The sample is fixed in formaldehyde and submitted to a pathologist for analysis.

3. Surgical wedge biopsy
The cat is placed under general anesthesia, and the abdomen is opened surgically. This permits direct visualization of the liver so the exact site for biopsy can be chosen. A piece of the liver is surgically removed using a scalpel. This approach gives the most reliable biopsy sample but the stress of surgery and the expense are the greatest of all of the biopsy methods. Some of the causes of liver-related icterus include infectious diseases (feline leukemia, feline infectious peritonitis, fungal disease), neoplasia and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver diseases)

4. Bile duct obstruction
Cats with obstructed bile ducts are usually extremely icteric. Their yellow color can often be seen readily in the skin, as well as the sclera (whites of the eyes) and gingival (gums). However, an evaluation of the gall bladder and bile ducts is necessary to be sure that obstruction is present. An ultrasound examination is the most accurate and non-invasive way to evaluate the gall bladder and bile duct. This technology uses sound waves to ‘look’ at the liver, gall bladder and bile duct. If this is not available, x-rays should be taken of the liver. However, sometimes exploratory surgery is necessary to properly evaluate the cat for biliary obstruction. The most common causes of bile duct obstruction include pancreatitis, trauma, cancer, gall bladder stones, liver flukes, and severely thickened bile.

Treatment & Recovery
Icterus is not a disease; it is a sign that disease is present. Therefore, there is no specific treatment. Icterus will resolve when the disease that causes it is cured. The basis for resolving icterus is to diagnose the underlying disease. When the proper testing is done, this is usually possible. The prognosis is dependent upon the underlying cause. Some diseases causing icterus are fatal but others have a good prognosis for full recovery

Taken from Clubpets: Your lifestyle pet magazine (Issue no. 15: Feb – May 2005)

Is your cat driving you mad meowing non-stop for food? Or is she waking you at 3am with her special song? Read on!!!

Be Patient! It takes time for cats to learn behaviors, and often takes even more time to unlearn them. In order to make a change in your cat’s meowing, you need to be very consistent and give your cat time to adjust.

The first documented and recognized ancestor of all Scottish Folds is “Sussie”, a folded-ear barn cat found on the McRae farm in the Tayside Region of Scotland. All Scottish Fold cats today can be tracked back to the McRaes’ Susie. Mary and William Ross, British Shorthair breeders who fell in love with Susie, were promised 1 of her kittens. In 1963, the Rosses were given a folded-ear white female they named’ Snooks’, who was bred with an unknown red tabby male. Her first litter produced one male kitten, ‘Snowball’ who was bred to a white British Shorthair, ‘Lady May’ and their litter produced 5 folded-ear kittens. Thus, begins the lineage of the Folds.

While several people became interested in developing and preserving the Scottish Folds, some problems were beginning to concern the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF) in England. Accepted for showing originally in 1966, registration of Scottish Folds was closed in 1971. Concerned over the possible increase in ear mite infestation and deafness (both concerns later proved to be unfounded), the GCCF also became concerned about possible genetic difficulties. With the growing concern, the GCCF decided to ban further registration of Scottish Folds in England.

Originally, many Folds had foreshortened tails, which were inflexible. Dr. Rosemond Peltz, who served as the first genetic consultant for the American Scottish Fold breeders, offered the opinion that extremely careful breeding could diminish this undesirable defect. Breeders began to use more outcrossing and the gene pool increased. This produced longer, more flexible tails and the bone lesions and foreshortened tails began to disappear. Without the help and generosity of American and British Shorthair breeders who share their beautiful cats with Fold breeders, this breed might well be lost to the cat fancy and all those who love the ‘Foldie’.

In May 1977, Scottish Folds were given provisional status in CFA. A look at those early pedigree shows that several breeds were originally used to increase the gene pool and return the cats to their original barn cat’s hearty state. The Scottish Fold was granted championship status by The Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA) in 1978.

The most prominent feature of any Scottish Fold is of course the ears, which fold forward and downward. The ears are usually small and tightly folded, giving the cat’s head a unique round silhouette. An incompletely dominant gene that affects the cartilage of the ears, giving a cap-like appearance to the head, produces the folds. Despite their folded ears, Folds still use their aural appendages to express themselves. The ears swivel to listen, lay back in anger and prick up when the treat bag rustles. Folds have large, round and broadly spaced eyes full of sweetness, well-rounded whisker pads and a short nose with a gentle curve in profile. The head is round and wide on a short neck with the males tending to be jowly.

Scottish Folds are medium-sized cats and can be either shorthaired or longhaired. The Fold’s body also gives the impression of roundness. It is well-padded and even from shoulder to pelvis. The tail is medium to long, tapered and in proportion to the body. The longhaired Fold has a medium-long to long coat that is soft and full of life, and boasts a full ruff, leg britches, toe tufts, ear furnishings and a huge plume of a tail. The shorthaired Fold has a short to medium-short, dense, resilient coat that stands away from the body. Not all Scottish Fold kittens will have folded ears. All Scottish Fold kittens are born with straight ears. It isn’t until the kitten is about 3 weeks old that a breeder will begin to know which kittens will have folded ears and which will not. There are degrees of folding, usually described as single, double and triple fold. A single fold is generally a ‘loose’ fold and is not a show quality. The most desirable fold is a triple fold, which is tight to the head. Owners of tightly-folded Scottish Folds need to check their insides of their ears frequently, as they can accumulate dirt and wax more easily. However, straight-eared Scottish Folds are sought after in breeding programs and still make wonderful pets.

Many Scottish Folds have the curious habit of sitting or lying in very strange postures – on their backs, sitting up like a ‘Buddha’ position or flattening themselves out like little bearskin rugs. Their small, folded ears are unusually expressive, more so than an average cat’s ‘normal’ ears.

They have soft, chirpy voices and chirping sounds are often heard coming from Folds, especially the young ones, although that have tiny voices and not very vocal. Kittens and adults tend to enjoy sleeping on their backs, which comes from their relaxed attitudes. Scottish Folds adapt to almost any home situation and are comfortable with other pets, children and strangers.

Scottish Folds are mellow, loving, sweet-tempered and adapt quickly to new environments and people. While Folds will deign to allow others to cuddle and pat them, they are very loyal and tend to bond with one person in the household, whom they will follow from room to room like devoted, lop-eared puppies. They thrive on attention and interaction with their chosen humans and are agreeable to almost any suggestion – as long as it can be accomplished from a reclining position.

Despite their devotion, they are not clingy or demanding cats and usually prefer to be near you rather than on your lap. They vocalize only when they have something very important to say like ‘Feed me’, but even their voices are usually quiet. They enjoy a good game of fetch now ad then and stay playful and kittenish well into adulthood. Scottish Folds are hardy cats, much like their barnyard ancestors.

Scottish Folds do not require as much grooming as longhairs do. Shorthairs remain glistening on one or two brushings a week and require infrequent bathing. Longhaired Folds need about 3 brushings a week and should be bathed once a month.

The folded ears can cause an increase production of wax buildup in some cats, making ear cleaning a necessary part of grooming for both long and shorthaired varieties. A Scottish Fold’s ears are no more difficult to keep clean than other cats’ ears. A few cotton swabs, cotton balls and some rubbing alcohol, oil or peroxide and swab the visible parts of the ears carefully. Do not plunge the cotton swab or ball down into the ear canal further than eye can see or you might do some permanent damage.

Scottish Folds adapt to almost any home situation and are as comfortable in a room full of noisy children and dogs as they are in a single person’s dwelling. They don’t usually panic at shows or in strange places and they adjust to other animals extremely well. They have indeed come a long way, from a simple and humble barnyard beginning to one of the most popular and pampered breeds of cat in many homes, as well as reaching winning status at many cat shows.

There was a cat exibition at South City Plaza on Sunday, 15th January 2006 organised by a private organisation, Aftina House with the cooperation by a small group of people whom devoted themselves in love of cats. The purpose of this exibition is to introduce certain cat breeds to the public and therefore, it is more like an educational stop plus other side events as well. I was honoured that I had been contacted by Puan Hajah Kamariah to join them as exibitors and also give a talk about Munchkin. Besides acting as exibitor, I had volunteered to be their so-called camera-man for the event as well. Here are some snapshots:

Colouring contest for children

Among the breeds featured during the event were:
Balinese

Bengal

Birman

British Shorthair

American Curl

Exotic

Maine Coon

Munchkin

Norwegian Forest

Oriental

Persian

Scottish Fold

Somali

Sphynx

Fancy Cat Dress Parade

Birman introduction to the public

British Shorthair introduction to the public

Munchkin introduction to the public

Oriental introduction to the public

Persian introduction to the public

Spyhnx introduction to the public

Lady Yelena is a brown mackerel with white semi-longhair cat. Approximately 6 months old or so and she is my 6th member of my cat family. To begin with the story, Yelena was actually a pet cat for a lady whom about to migrate to China and therefore, had left Yelena to my close friend’s mother to take care. When my friend mentioned about this, I told him that I am interested to have a look since I am in search of a female cat.

Currently, Yelena is still with my friend’s place and hopefully Yelena will be arriving to my home before this Chinese New Year and Yelena…. proud daddy is waiting for ya…..

As with all important decisions, buying a purebred cat requires thought and planning. You are about to embark upon a relationship that may span fifteen to twenty years – longer than many marriages. So make sure you spend some time finding the right breeder. You can save yourself veterinary expense and grief by finding a responsible, caring breeder whose goal is to produce healthy, genetically sound, well socialized kittens; a breeder who truly cares about your chosen breed and wants good homes for his or her special kids. Resist the urge to buy on impulse, and know your source before plucking down your hard-earned cash. A bit of patience can make the difference between years of happiness with your feline friend and years of heartache. Why buy from a breeder rather than a pet store, private party, or newspaper ad?

While buying from a breeder does not insure you a healthy, well socialized cat, buying from pet stores or newspaper ads is often risky business, and may cause you considerable grief and expense in the long run. Reputable breeders do not sell their kittens to pet shops, so pet shops often obtain their kittens from less than pristine sources, such as the so-called backyard breeders or kitten mills. Such kitten producers breed only for profit and care little about the health, happiness, and long lives of their animals. Their cats often live in deplorable overcrowded conditions, have infrequent handling and no socialization, and little veterinary care. No effort is made to ensure genetic health by carefully planning the breeding and choosing the most genetically compatible mates. Don’t assume that any breeder who maintains a cattery in his or her residence is a backyard breeder, however. Most reputable breeders operate their catteries out of their homes, so they can give their cats the attention and care they need.

The emotionally loaded term “backyard breeder” can be misleading; it actually refers to the quality of care and concern and the slipshod, assembly-line method of breeding, not the location where the breeding is done. Newspaper ads can be placed by reputable breeders, but are more often placed by kitten mills and people who have bred their pet-quality purebreds, violating their purchase agreements since pet-quality purebreds are almost never sold with breeding rights. In fact, most breeders withhold the papers of their pet-quality purebreds until the owners have provided proof of alteration to prevent these matings. While these kittens may be less expensive than a breeder-bred kitten, you generally get what you pay for. Such people generally know little or nothing about breeding cats. Too, these cats usually cannot be registered or shown since the owners cannot provide pedigrees or registration papers, and without papers you can’t tell if the cat you’re buying is a true purebred at all. If you buy from a newspaper ad, be even more scrupulous about investigating the seller.

First Things First
Before you begin shopping for your dream cat, you’ll need to do your homework. First, you’ll want to decide which breed is best for you. Once you’ve chosen the breed, it’s very important to learn as much as you can about it before you begin looking for a breeder. That means becoming familiar with the breed’s standard, characteristics, personality, strengths and weaknesses, potential genetic and health problems, and grooming requirements and other special needs. You need this information if you are to be an informed consumer. Fortunately, the Internet is a wonderful resource for breed information. The Cat fanciers website is also an excellent online resource. Also, visit the cat associations online, since many offer standards and other information on each breed they recognize:
American Association of Cat Enthusiasts (AACE)
American Cat Fancier’s Association (ACFA)
Canadian Cat Association (CCA)
Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA)
Cat Fanciers’ Federation (CFF)
Fédération International Féline FIFé)
The International Cat Association (TICA)
Traditional Cat Association (TCA)

Finding a Breeder
After you’ve chosen and learned all you can about your breed, check out the breeder listings in cat magazines such as Cats and Kittens (www.catsandkittens.com) or Cat Fancy (www.animalnetwork.com/cats). Their websites also have breeder listings. Breed-specific clubs or societies also exist and can provide lists of breeder members. These groups usually have a written code of ethics their members agree to uphold. Many of the cat associations also can provide breeder lists. The cat association websites also have listings of their upcoming shows. Attending a cat show is a great way to meet reputable breeders and see their cats. Breeders who show strive to produce cats that meet the breed standard – the physical ideal for that particular breed. At shows breeders and their cats are subject to scrutiny by experienced judges and exhibitors who can quickly spot a bad apple in their bunch. Therefore, cat shows are usually good places to meet reputable breeders. Kitten producers care nothing about the breed standard or showing their cats, since they are breeding for profit rather than to improve the breed.

Depending upon the breed you’ve chosen, you may or may not be able to find a breeder with available kittens. The less common breeds and the breeds in high demand generally are sold through waiting lists. If you find a breeder you like but he or she has no kittens available, you may want to ask to be put on the breeder’s waiting list (you’ll have to put down a deposit), or the breeder may recommend other breeders who have available kittens. Responsible breeders associate with one another and help each other meet the demand for kittens. If you’re flexible on color, pattern and gender you’ll have an easier time obtaining a kitten. Or you can ask the breeder to inform you when kittens become available. Be patient. It’s better to wait and get a quality kitten from a reputable breeder than buy on impulse. If possible, find a breeder in your area, so you can visit the cattery and see the kitten before you buy. However, this is not always possible, particularly with the less common breeds, and you may have to go outside your area to find a good breeder. In that case, you’ll need a breeder who is willing to ship the kitten to you. If the breeder lives out of your area, at least see a photo of your kitten (the entire litter if you can) and photos of the parents before buying. Many breeders have websites where photos of their cats can be seen; be sure to ask.

Questions You Should Ask
Once you narrow down your search to several breeders (it’s best to find several possibilities in case one doesn’t work out), talk to each one. A caring breeder will be willing to answer all your questions. If the breeder’s answers are not satisfactory, or if you get the impression that the breeder is not being forthright, move onto the next one on your list.

Ask the following questions:
- How are the kittens raised? You want a kitten who has been raised “underfoot” in a loving home environment, rather than in an isolated cattery with little human contact.

- Can I see both parents, or only the mother? By seeing both parents, you’ll have a better idea of the adult appearance and temperament of the offspring. If the father is not available – which is often the case, since not every breeder keeps a male for stud service – ask to see a photo of the father, and be sure to see the mother.

- How many litters do you raise each year? A breeder who raises many litters is less likely to be able to socialize each kitten. Early loving contact with humans is vital if the kitten is to grow up to be a well-socialized, friendly, trusting adult cat.

- Can you provide names and phone numbers of people who have purchased your cats? If the breeder provides these references, follow through and check them out. Ask these owners about their experiences with the breeder. Of course, keep in mind that a breeder is likely to provide only the numbers of people who have had positive experiences.

- Has a veterinarian examined the kittens? What vaccinations will be given before the kittens are sent home? Have the cattery cats been tested for Feline Leukemia (FeLV) and Feline AIDS (FIV)? Depending upon the breed, other health questions should be asked as well, and that’s why it’s a good idea to become familiar with the breed. Maine coons, for example, are prone to hip dysplasia and a heart disease called cardiomyopathy. When buying a Maine coon, you’ll want to ask if the breeder’s cats have been screened for these conditions.

- Do you provide a written health guarantee for genetic and health problems? You want to choose a breeder who stands behind the quality and health of his or her cats.

- In what cat association(s) are your cats registered? This is important if you decide to show the cat, because each cat association has different show standards and rules regarding each breed. Also, this tells you if you’re dealing with a breeder who is working to improve the breed rather than just producing sellable kittens. Call the cat association(s) to which the breeder belongs to check his or her credentials before committing.

- Do you provide a pedigree and registration papers for your kittens? Even if you want pet quality and do not intend to show your cat, be sure you are buying a kitten that comes with these documents, also called “papers.” While papers don’t guarantee you a healthy, well-socialized cat, it increases the chances that the breeder is reputable and the cat is what the breeder claims. A cat without papers lacks them for a reason, usually because one or both parents were without papers or because the parents were not sold with breeding rights. A kitten without papers may not be a purebred at all. While part-purebred cats can still make fine companions, you shouldn’t have to pay purebred prices for a non-pedigreed cat.

- Will you ship your cats? Not all breeders will, although many do. This is important if you’re dealing with a breeder who’s out of your area.

- How much do you charge? Breeders are generally more responsive if you save this question for last. While price is certainly an important factor, breeders tend to be more impressed with prospective owners who don’t begin the conversation by giving the impression that getting a bargain basement cat is their most important consideration.

Questions Your Breeder May Ask
A responsible breeder will also ask you questions before agreeing to sell you a kitten. Some of these questions may seem very personal, but don’t take offense. Caring breeders are attached to their cats, and want to make sure their special kids go to loving, responsible homes. In fact, a breeder who seems eager to sell to just anybody may be a bad bet. If the breeder isn’t concerned about finding good homes for the kittens, how much care do you think he or she put into breeding the kittens in the first place? Expect the breeder to ask questions about your lifestyle. For example, he or she may ask whether you will be away from home a great deal, whether you have young children, your housing situation, whether you own or rent, and if you’re willing to keep the cat indoors (many breeders require this as a condition of sale). The breeder may ask what you will feed the kitten, and your views on declawing and spaying and neutering. The breeder may want to know what you would do if you couldn’t keep the cat any longer. He or she may ask how much you know about the breed, and whether you’re aware of the grooming and care commitment the breed requires. The breeder may ask if you’ve owned cats before, and what happened to them.

Visiting the Cattery
If your conversation with the breeder goes well and you feel you’ve found the right one for you, schedule a visit to the cattery if possible, because then you can see how the kittens are raised. When you visit, let your eyes and nose be your guides. Does the place smell clean, or does it reek of urine and feces? A cattery should be clean and tidy, but it also should look comfortably lived in. If it’s antiseptic and spotless the cats are likely kept in cages and allowed little human contact. Handling is just as important to a kitten’s upbringing as quality food and medical care. Do the breeding cats have a spacious environment in which to live rather than tiny cages? While it’s often necessary to keep some cats penned to ensure controlled breeding, particularly the stud males, the pens should be clean and spacious (with at least 27 cubic feet per cat), and the cats should not be kept constantly in these environments. Are the cats comfortable around people, or do they seem unused to human contact? Are toys, scratching posts, and other cat items in evidence, or do you get the impression the breeder views cats as just a moneymaking venture? If the breeder is not willing to let you visit the cattery, be wary. Ask yourself what it is that the breeder doesn’t want you to see.Whether you’re buying a pet, breeder or show quality kitten, ask the breeder to explain the kitten’s traits. If the kitten is not suitable for show, ask why. If the breeder is truly familiar with the breed standard, he or she can give you a rundown of a kitten’s strong points and shortcomings. It is essential to be familiar with the standard yourself before this point, since you’ll have a better understanding of what constitutes an ideal specimen of the breed. Keep in mind, however, that a pet quality kitten should be just as healthy and well-socialized as a show quality kitten. Pet quality cats merely have some cosmetic flaws of coat, color or conformation that makes them unsuitable for the show ring.Likely at this point you’re eager to take home your tiny tiger, but usually you’ll have to wait. Responsible breeders do not release their kittens until they are at least twelve weeks old, and some hold onto their kittens for sixteen weeks or longer. Sure, kittens are cute at eight weeks, but it’s vital to their health, development, and socialization that they spend the first weeks of life with their mother, so don’t begrudge them the extra time. Also, their immune systems are not fully developed and they are more susceptible to disease between eight and twelve weeks, and this can be aggravated by the stress of going to a new home. It’s better to wait and get a healthy kitten with a strong immune system and a full course of vaccinations against dangerous diseases.

Kittenhood is the shortest period of a cat’s life and will soon be over anyway. The cat’s long-term health is more important than enjoying a few short weeks of playful kitten antics. If a breeder is willing to let the kitten go at six or eight weeks, do yourself a favor and don’t buy from him or her – that breeder does not have the kitten’s best interests at heart. In fact, in many breeds it’s difficult to judge a cat’s potential accurately until four or five months of age. If a breeder wants to sell you a six-week-old show kitten, be extra wary.

The Sales Contract
Most reputable breeders have written sales contracts you’ll be expected to sign to purchase one of their cats. In fact, a written sales agreement is a sign of a caring, responsible breeder. You want your agreement in writing so you have resource if the kitten isn’t as represented. Breeder contracts vary. Common issues addressed include declawing, breeding, altering, and the cat’s care, housing, diet and medical treatment. Some contracts require you to keep the cat indoors, and to give the breeder an opportunity to buy the cat back if you can no longer keep it. Most contracts prohibit the cat from being sold or given to pet shops, shelters or research laboratories. It’s also a common practice for the breeder to withhold the papers of pet quality cats until you provide proof of spaying or neutering. This is reasonable and responsible, given the overpopulation problem. Some breeders do not release their kittens until the altering has been done. They also want to keep the quality of their breed high, and that means preventing pet quality cats from being bred by people who may know nothing about breeding and may have little concern about finding good homes for the kittens they produce.Read the contract carefully. If you have questions or concerns about the conditions, ask the breeder for clarification. If you think the conditions are unreasonable or too restrictive, buy from another breeder. Once you sign the contract, you are legally and morally obligated to honor it.Choosing a Healthy KittenWhen choosing your kitten, try to make sure he is healthy and well cared for. Make sure the kitten has had appropriate vaccinations and dewormers for his age. Also, look for the following traits:

Active, playful and well-socialized; kitten should not appear fearful
Bright eyes, with no discharge of any sort
No nasal discharge
Clean ears and skin
Pink gums and correctly aligned teeth
Well-proportioned body
Shiny coat
Good eyesight and hearing—check this by jingling your keys and seeing if the kitten responds.

Always have your new pet examined by your veterinarian as soon as possible. If there is a medical problem, you should be able to return the kitten to the breeder.

A Final Word
If this all seems like a lot of work, that’s because it is. In the long run, however, you’ll have a better experience if you take the time. Many a cat lover has sworn off purebreds forever because their first, bought on impulse from a disreputable source, caused them so much heartache. It doesn’t have to be that way. Your efforts and patience will be rewarded with many happy years with a healthy, sociable feline companion.

The misconception that dogs hate cats (and vice versa) may have been born because the media portrays them this way. But can they really not get along?

Movies depict ongoing battles between the 2 species. Or it may have been generated because some dog people strongly dislike cats and some cat people disdain dogs. However, dogs and cats can live peaceably as long as owners understand the behaviors of each.

Because both cats and dogs are predators, both tend to be aggressive and defensive at different times. For example, cats pounce on literally everything from butterflies, mice, grasshoppers and birds, to still items like twigs. Dogs, however chase anything that moves especially if it squeals. So, if the cat triggers the dog’s prey drive, the dog will chase. If a medium large dog catches the cat, it can easily kill by grabbing and shaking.

Fact is cats and dogs don’t hate each other. Cats are merely afraid and defensive against dogs because of their enthusiasm and aggressiveness. Let’s face it. Dogs are rougher when it comes to play time. Dogs don’t really know how to control their strength; therefore they might hurt a cat when they get too excited upon first meeting. Therefore the cat and the dog must learn to get used to each other first.

Cats are independent creatures. Imagine this, the least independent cat is more independent than the most independent dog. Cats exude an aura of self-confidence, of mastery over their territory and its inhabitants. Most cats do not deign to obey commands and if they do, pleasing a human is probably the last thing on their minds.

Cats are physically and mentally capable by exploring their surroundings in great detail. Dogs are physically clumsy in comparison as their bodies are not as agile and they are mentally tuned to different stations. They concentrate on dominance and submission, play and keeping track of the people in their lives, unlike cats, who concentrate on explorations of surroundings. As pets they would be able to complement each other well, the independence of a cat and the faithfulness of a dog.

Most of the pet owners who owned dogs and cats feel that lots of common sense and caution is required to make this relationship work.

Rules of the game
1. Remember to always supervise your cats and dogs until you know they will get along. Some adult dogs will carry kittens around and young kittens will accept this attention but it’s probably best to gently take the kitten away from the dog to avoid injury (remember, dogs can be quite rough without knowing)

2. If you have more than 1 dog, do not allow them to gang up on the cat. 2 dogs make a small pack, the cat may look like quarry to one and he may entice the other into a hunt (remember, cats get defensive very easily). It’s best to introduce the cat to 1 dog at a time so that each dog understands that the cat is part of the family and not an object of play or prey.

3. Make sure the dog does not have access to the cat’s litter box. Sooner or later, unless you can check the litter box several times a day and clean it immediately, you pooch will eat the cat’s droppings. Some owners handle this problem by placing the litter box in a room accessible by a cat door so the dog can’t get in.

4. Separate cats and dogs at mealtime. As complete carnivores, cats need diets that include the amino acid taurine; if the dog eats the cat food and the entire cat gets is leavings in the dog bowl, the cat might develop a dietary deficiency. In addition, a dog that guards his food could attack the cat or gulp his meals too quickly and develop digestive problems.

5. Don’t leave thawing meat, cooling desserts or any other food or scraps where a cat can get them. Cats can jump onto the table or counter or spill the wastebasket. He might either drop things on the floor for the dog or send the dog into frenzy or frustrated whining and barking. Some dogs will bark whenever a cat leaps or climbs to a surface used for food.

6. If your dog has a high prey drive, make sure to teach the command ‘leave it’ so you can control his chase impulse. It’s best to prevent the pursuit because once the chase sequence starts, the dog likely to be deaf to instructions from you. This might result in your cat getting seriously injured. Similarly, you should make sure the cats get plenty of opportunity to stalk and pounce on things other than the dog’s tail.

7. Pay attention to both pets as often as possible. You can tell pooch to ‘stay down’ while you hold the kitten in your lap and tell him matter-of-factly that this newcomer is now part of the family and you will accept no rough stuff. Often the attitude and attention of the owner is enough to prevent serious rivalries or hostilities from developing.

Some cats will never really need a bath but for pet owners who have allergies, bathing your cat can reduce your allergy symptoms. And there are times that a cat may actually need a bath, like for instance if your cat falls into the toilet or has a flea problem.

The younger your cat is when you start bathing, the better it is. The cat will eventually grow accustomed to being bathed on a regular basis and will be less likely to freak out in the tub. When getting ready try to remain as inconspicuous as possible. Cats know when something’s up and will hide.

So, grab kitty and let’s begin!

Step 1
Before giving your cat a bath, gather the required supplies:
- Clean towel
- Cat shampoo & conditioner
- Nail clippers
- Cotton balls
- Cat brush / comb

Step 2
Clean the cat’s ears to remove any debris and check for signs of parasite infections

Step 3
Trim nails with the special cat nail clippers

Step 4
Brush the fur to remove excess fur and to remove all mats and other things that may be caught in the fur

Step 5
Fill the bathtub enough to cover the cat’s feet up to about 10cm. Use only lukewarm and not hot water. Try not to use shower because this could frighten the cat.

Step 6
Place the cotton balls in the cat’s ears to prevent water from getting into the ear canals.

Step 7
Lather the cat up with shampoo, gently massaging the cat’s body. When the cat is completely lathered up, take a cup and gently pour water over the cat to rinse all the shampoo off.

Step 8
Even though the cat may seem thoroughly rinsed, rinse the fur again. Cat fur can still contain soap that is not visible but will still cause some skin irritation.

Step 9
If your cat has had problems with dry skin after being bathed, then you may want to add conditioner. Make sure to follow the directions that come with the product and that you rinse it off thoroughly.

Step 10
Before using the towel try to gently remove excess water from your cat by running your hand down their back and sides. After this, gently blot the cat dry. Rubbing them can cause the fur to mat.

Step 11
Make sure the cat stays warm. You can use a blow dryer set on cool to dry your cat if the noise doesn’t frighten him. Never use a heated setting because a cat’s skin is very thin and sensitive.

Step 12
After the whole bathing process is over, never forget to give your cat a reward. Treats and cuddling are a great reward for a job well done.